During my career I traveled a great deal, not only in the US, but overseas – mostly Europe. I’ve been many times and usually did the same trek: London, Paris, Geneva, Milan. Believe it or not, most of my time was spent working, with interviews starting very early in the morning and continuing well into the evening. There were days that I drank lots of espresso, ate nothing, and before I knew it I was finishing the last interview at 10:00 p.m. at the Principe in Milan. I’d go to my room and have a Snickers Bar before falling into bed.
Several years ago (before I married Doug), I decided to take a trip to Provence – no work – just a real vacation and all by myself.
My plan was to fly into Paris, spend a few days, take the train to Geneva (and then a plane to Zürich) to visit my cousin Steven and then the fast train from Geneva to Avignon for a week’s stay. I would train back to Paris, stay for two days and then travel home.
The first few days in Paris are always glorious, especially if you are lucky enough to stay in the Lancaster, a small hotel in the 8th Arr. Staying there is just like living in Paris – sublime. It is just a lovely, perfect French place, with strikingly personalized service, an exceptional restaurant (that is exclusive to guests) and it is in a great location. Not far off the Champs-Elysees, it is in a neighborhood and walking distance to many shops on Fauborg/St. Honore . Just a turn onto,Rue Royal to Madeleine will get you to Boulevard Haussmann and the grands magasins – Galeries Lafayette and Au Pritemps. I wanted to visit Marche aux Puces (the flea markets) and a very nice Antique Show near Place de la Republique before taking the train from Garde du Nord to Geneva. It was perfect weather and a perfect few days.
The train ride was so delightful – we should certainly demand more from our train transportation network in the US. The cleanliness, food service and ease of traveling by train in Europe is unbeatable. And I even had a train case that I carried! (I bought it specifically for the trip!)
You really cannot easily get to Zürich, by train, from Paris because of the Alps, so the best way is to train to Geneva, then go to the airport for a quick flight to Zürich.
My cousin, Stephen, is American and has lived in a little town just south of Zürich – Richterswil – for probably twenty years now. Sitting on the deck of his house (after the little girls were put to bed)with his wife – a nice glass of wine and Tete de Moine shaved on a Girolle is o memorable. A Girolle is a wonderful little gadget the shaves, so thin, a slice of this white, semi-hard cheese. It has sort of an arm that you wind, thus turning the blade around the top of the wheel of cheese. Wonderful bread held the feather-thin slices and a sip of wine was even more delightful when one hears the sound of soft cowbells jingling on the hills nearby. European Paradise!
A few days later I took the fast train from Geneva to Avignon. I treated myself to a first-class ticket and the trip was gratifying. I think it would have been regardles of class travelled – the scenery was beautiful the food and the service were very good.
As soon as I left the train, I rented a car, drove inside the walls of Avignon and started to look for my hotel. Avignon is an ancient, walled city . The Vatican moved there from 1309 to 1377 and built the incredible Palais du Pape. The streets are a criss-cross of cobblestone – very narrow and hard to drive through. By the time I found the hotel, I surely had scraped the car a few times!
La Mirande is a hotel that was originally Hotel Pamard – it was not a hotel but the actual residence of the Pamard family from 1796 through the late 20th century. In 1990 the Stein Family bought the property and have made it into what it is today. With just about 30 rooms, it is very country french in style, and a place in which everyone who is employed, pays great attention to detail for their guests. They maintain the traditional style, rather than the sleek and modern – and I like it that way. Toile is very prevalent in their decorating and they have chosen beautiful furniture throughout . The common space includes an pleasing, fragrant garden, a breakfast room, a very elegant dinning room and a small bar. Their service is impeccable – they don’t wait to be asked for something – they watch and react in anticipation.
I have travelled by myself for my whole adult life, and very rarely do I eat alone in a restaurant for the evening meal. At La Mirande, I ordered room service the first night and surprisingly, the Manager asked me, the next day, why I ate alone. When I explained my usual methods for the evening meal, he insisted that I try the dining room that evening. And I did. They placed me in a banquet at the end of a long wall so that I could see everything that was going on, but would not be conspicuously a “one”. I had a wonderful time and the Maitre D’ and waiters all took very good care of me. A note to the very fine meal: I learned that dark chocolate and Chateau Talbot Bordeaux are a perfect match and a perfect end to a perfect dinner.
Le Mirande is also known for known for it’s lovely cooking school which is in the basement of this fantastic building. For my week’s stay, I arranged for a 3-day cooking class that was not only delightful but of such Provencal style, I don’t know what was more irresistible – the cooking or the decor! There were only 5 people in the class with a different guest chef for each of the three days. The work table was as huge block of aged wood surrounded by high stools – each place had its own mise-en-place – which included tools and a beautifully laundered white apron, folded carefully for presentation at one’s seat. The wood- fired oven was original to the building and a stunning piece not only to look at but to cook on and in. And the cooking dishes and pottery were incredibly attractive. The dish at the top of the page is one that I purchased. It has been on my counter every day, in every city in which I have lived. I love the way it looks and it brings back every memory of the trip each time I use it.
We prepared a myriad of Provencal dishes but for me the supreme was tarte tatin in all its simple glory. Prepared in a skillet and then baked in an oven dish of sugary syrup over beautifully cut apples on a bit of pastry it is a beautiful sight. Just a little slice, along with a tiny cup of espresso and my sweet tooth was divinely satisfied. From that day I have never tasted anything so delicious. I’ve tried to duplicate this dessert several times – I’m close but not there. I truly believe it is the local ingredients that have much influence in the success of any dish. Baking sugar – castor sugar in other countries – or sucre en poudre in France is not the same consistency of granulated sugar here – the texture is quite different. Butter is Europe is close to what we can buy in Supreme or one of the high butterfat brands, but not exact.
At then end of the week, I reluctently turned in my car and boarded the train to Paris – only two more days before I would return home. Still, the sights of lavender and poppies for miles and miles, the lovely service, the great food and an opportunity to cook in a medieval kitchen are in my memories forever.
If you visit the south of France you should at least stop and have tea or a drink at La Mirande – and you should, for sure, rent a car and drive yourself around the area. I loved the freedom of being able to go anywhere I wanted – and on my own.
A few years ago after this trip, on another, I met my daughter, Karin. and my daughter-in-law, Shellee in Paris. Karin had lived Paris and studied in American University there and spent the summer following, travelling all over Europe; it was Shellee’s first trip. It was delightful to be in a beautiful city again, with beautiful young women – especially at Les Deux Magots – but that is another story for another time!
A bientot!
E
Paradise Found 